F150 Raptor SuperCrew 5.5-ft Bed
3.5L 6-Cylinder · 80,000 mi · Model only
5.4 researched · 1.8 owner reported
Research covers this year, model and mileage. Items marked addressed are reported by the owner and not verified by Squeezed. This is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection.
2017 · FordF150 Raptor SuperCrew 5.5-ft Bed
What the data shows
This 2017 Raptor has had the two biggest known issues—cam phasers and transmission TSB—addressed, making it a more reliable choice. Budget for IWE hub inspection, potential oil pan leak, and windshield replacement. The asking price is at the upper end of market, but the quality modifications add value if you plan to use them.
At a Glance
What this guide surfacedneeds replacement, $500–800
common vacuum hub issue, $500–1000 repair
Stage 1 ECU/TCU may increase engine wear
larger tires may accelerate suspension wear
major cold-start rattle issue addressed by Ford
shift quality fix applied
high-performance suspension upgrade
cam phasers and transmission TSB completed with records
Deal Score weighs the asking price against comparable listings, the title, and the repairs documented in this guide.
- Fair deal
- −1.6IWE Hub FailureDue now · usually around 60k mi
- −0.7Oil Pan LeakDue now · usually around 70k mi
- −0.2Fox 3.0 Shock ServiceDue now · usually around 50k mi
Next · 2 of 5
Detailed findings, 13 items
Click any card for the full breakdown, repair cost, and what to check. Items already handled by the owner show as checked.
Reflects the open findings; items the owner handled are excluded.
Costly repairs, but not urgent to verify before you buy. Price them out and use them to negotiate.
Cam Phaser Rattle
Transmission Harsh Shifting / CDF Drum
IWE Hub Failure
The Integrated Wheel End (IWE) system uses vacuum to engage the front hubs. The vacuum lines or check valve often fail, causing a grinding noise from the front end, especially in 2WD mode.
Oil Pan Leak
The 3.5L EcoBoost uses a plastic oil pan that can warp and leak over time. Ford later switched to a metal pan. At 80,000 miles, seepage is increasingly likely.
Minor wear typical for the car’s age. Not worth negotiating over, but good to track as an owner.
Turbo Wastegate Rattle
Some 3.5L EcoBoost turbos develop a metallic rattle from the wastegate actuator at idle or light throttle. It's often a nuisance noise rather than an immediate failure, but can worsen over time.
Spark Plug Replacement Due
Ford recommends spark plugs at 100,000 miles, but with a Stage 1 tune and 80,000 miles, they're likely due now. Worn plugs can cause misfires under boost.
Transmission Fluid and Filter Service
Ford's normal schedule suggests 150,000 miles, but for off-road or tuned use, many owners change fluid at 50,000–60,000 miles. At 80,000 miles, it's likely overdue if not done.
Differential Fluid Service
Front and rear differential fluid should be changed every 50,000–60,000 miles, especially with larger tires. At 80,000 miles, it's due if not recorded.
Transfer Case Fluid Service
Similar to differentials, transfer case fluid should be changed every 50,000–60,000 miles. At 80,000 miles, it's likely due.
Cracked Windshield
The seller notes a rock hit that spidered the windshield, which hasn't been replaced yet. It will need a new windshield for safety and visibility.
Larger Tires Stress
The 37-inch tires are larger than the stock 35-inch, increasing strain on ball joints, tie rods, and wheel bearings. This can accelerate wear, especially off-road.
Aftermarket Tune
The Accessport Stage 1 ECU and TCU tune increases horsepower and torque. While generally safe, it adds stress to the engine and transmission, potentially shortening component life if not maintained meticulously.
Fox 3.0 Shock Service
High-performance Fox 3.0 DSC bypass shocks can require rebuilding every 40,000–50,000 miles, especially with hard off-road use. It's unclear if they've been serviced.
Every finding still open carries a question worth asking. Copy them as one message, already ordered by severity. Anything you have marked above drops off on its own.
Next · 3 of 5
Price & negotiation
BetaBased on comparable listings and the repairs you can document. A starting point for what this car should cost.
Price breakdown
What it costs, and when
Verify now
Critical and major items to confirm first.
Possible year-one expense
Caution items with repair-cost context.
Each range is what that one item costs if it turns out to be present. Not every item will apply to this car, so they do not add up to a bill. Verify with a mechanic.
Asking is $43,500 against a typical $43,500 for this car and mileage. The work is the difference, not the sticker.
Negotiate your offer
Asking is roughly in line with the market estimate. The documented repairs below are common points buyers raise.
- Documented critical/major repairs of $1,000–$1,800 you can point to.
- Strongest items to raise first: IWE Hub Failure, Oil Pan Leak.
Pricing is in beta. The market estimate comes from research models and can be off by thousands on the same car, so check recent local listings before you rely on it. This is information to help you research, not a professional inspection, an appraisal, or financial advice.
Next · 4 of 5
Recalls & safety
NHTSA crash-test ratings and recall data for this make, model, and year. Check recall status with your VIN before buying.
Next · 5 of 5
In-person inspection
13 things to check before you buy
4 major and 9 caution findings, turned into a walkthrough for the driveway. Answers save as you go.
Before you leave: Ask the seller not to start or move the car before you arrive. A sales-ready car has usually been warmed up, and a warm engine hides the startup smoke, rattles and rough idle that the first section is built around.
01Cold Start CheckFirst2
Start the engine cold while you watch the exhaust and listen. Note how quickly it catches, the tint of any smoke, rattles in the first few seconds, and how smoothly it settles into idle. This is the one test you cannot repeat on the spot.
02Exterior Walk-around1
Look at the ground under the car before anything else, and separate fresh wet marks from old stains. Then walk the body in daylight: panel gaps and paint texture for past repairs, glass, lights, tire age, and the wheel arches and rockers for rust or filler. Push each corner down; it should rebound once and settle.
03Engine & Systems3
Before the first start: pull the oil dipstick and look for a milky film, check the coolant for oil or rust, squeeze the radiator hoses for hard or mushy spots, and note the battery date. Once warm: confirm the cooling fans cycle, listen for belt noise, look for fresh seepage that was not there cold, and check that the A/C blows cold.
04Test Drive4
Drive a route with stops, a hill, and some open road. Feel for shift quality, clutch or torque-converter behaviour, brakes that pull or pulse, steering play, and any noise that changes with speed or steering angle.
05Documentation3
Match the VIN across the title, dash, and door jamb. On a dealer lot, read the Buyers Guide sticker: it states whether the car carries a warranty or is sold as is, and as is means every repair after the sale is yours. Review service records and recall history, then run an OBD-II scan for stored and pending codes.
Everything on this list is what you can see standing next to the car. A shop on a lift sees the rest, and a written pre-purchase inspection listing parts and labor is what a seller has to answer to. Budget roughly $100 to $150 at an ASE-certified shop.
Your car next?
Get your own Buyer Guide
Same depth of analysis, personalized to the exact vehicle you're evaluating. Known failure patterns, repair cost exposure, and questions to ask the seller.