F150 Raptor SuperCrew 5.5-ft Bed
3.5L 6-Cylinder · 91,300 mi · Model only
4.0 researched · 0.2 owner reported
Research covers this year, model and mileage. Items marked addressed are reported by the owner and not verified by Squeezed. This is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection.
2019 · FordF150 Raptor SuperCrew 5.5-ft Bed
What the data shows
This Raptor should hold value better than an ordinary F-150 because of its 802A equipment, carbon fiber package, and strong enthusiast demand. The repaired camshaft phasers remove one major resale concern, while 37-inch wheels may create less visible suspension and drivetrain wear.
Budget about $13,800 for aging suspension or transmission work, verify phaser and transmission records, and compare the $42,000 price with the market estimate.
At a Glance
What this guide surfacedlarger beadlock wheels and tires can accelerate steering, bearing, brake, and suspension wear
91,391 miles puts expensive turbocharger, transmission, and suspension repairs closer than on lower-mile examples
the 10-speed automatic is entering a mileage range where shift quality and fluid condition matter to resale
the seller reports the expensive camshaft phaser repair was completed before 79,000 miles
Ford Performance spark plugs were replaced approximately 1,200 miles ago
the 802A and carbon fiber packages support continued demand for this Raptor
Deal Score weighs the asking price against comparable listings, the title, and the repairs documented in this guide.
- Price 6% below market
- 7 major issues
- 9 open safety recalls
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Detailed findings, 15 items
Click any card for the full breakdown, repair cost, and what to check. Items already handled by the owner show as checked.
Reflects the open findings; items the owner handled are excluded.
Costly repairs, but not urgent to verify before you buy. Price them out and use them to negotiate.
Camshaft Phaser Wear
Ten-Speed Shift Harshness
The ten-speed automatic transmission can develop harsh, delayed, or confused shifts, especially during low-speed 3-4 and 5-6 changes. A software update or adaptive-learn reset may help, but persistent slipping, flaring, or banging points toward valve-body or internal wear.
Turbocharger Oil Leaks
The twin turbochargers can develop oil seepage or bearing noise, producing oily residue, whistling, smoke, or reduced boost. At this mileage, a small leak should not be dismissed because turbo replacement requires significant labor.
Front Suspension Bushing Wear
The front control-arm and stabilizer-bar bushings can crack or loosen, causing clunks, wandering, uneven tire wear, or steering vibration. The larger 37-inch wheel and tire package increases leverage on these parts compared with the original tire size.
Adaptive Shock Absorber Wear
The electronically controlled shock absorbers can lose damping or develop leaks, producing bouncing, nose dive, uneven ride height, or a suspension warning. Replacement is considerably more expensive than conventional F-150 shock work.
Four-Wheel-Drive Engagement Fault
The electronically shifted four-wheel-drive system can fail to engage or remain stuck in a selected mode because of actuator, wiring, or control faults. A flashing four-wheel-drive indicator or refusal to change modes is the usual first clue.
Front Wheel Bearing Wear
The front hub bearings can develop humming, looseness, or vibration as mileage and tire loads accumulate. Larger tires and beadlock-style wheels can make a marginal bearing noticeable sooner during turns or highway driving.
Intercooler Condensation Hesitation
Moisture can collect in the charge-air cooler and cause hesitation, stumble, or temporary loss of power after humid operation or repeated short trips. The symptom is usually a brief bog under acceleration rather than a constant misfire.
Minor wear typical for the car’s age. Not worth negotiating over, but good to track as an owner.
Oil Pan Gasket Seepage
The composite oil pan gasket can seep engine oil along the lower pan rail, leaving wetness or drops on the underside. A small seep is common age-related deterioration, but an active leak can contaminate the underside and require substantial labor to reseal.
Carbon Deposits On Intake Valves
The direct-injected engine can accumulate deposits on the intake valves, causing rough idle, cold-start misfires, hesitation, or reduced power. The problem is more likely to show as mileage rises and cannot be diagnosed from a clean exterior inspection alone.
Battery And Ground Faults
A weak battery or corroded ground connection can create multiple warning lights, difficult starting, and erratic electronic behavior. The ten-speed transmission, four-wheel-drive system, and adaptive suspension are particularly sensitive to low system voltage.
Sunroof Drain Leakage
The panoramic sunroof drain tubes and seals can allow water into the headliner, pillars, or carpet, producing damp trim, stains, or electrical problems. A dry cabin today does not prove the drains flow freely during heavy rain.
Thirty-Seven-Inch Tire Wear
The aftermarket 37-inch beadlock-style wheels and tires can rub, wear unevenly, or load the steering and suspension if alignment, clearance, and tire pressures are not correct. The seller identifies the tires as OEM-specification KO2s, but fitment still needs a physical check.
Spark Plug Ignition Misfire
Worn or incorrectly gapped spark plugs can cause hesitation, rough running, and a flashing engine warning light under boost. The seller reports Ford Performance spark plugs were installed about 1,200 miles ago, so installation quality and the reason for replacement should be documented.
Transmission Fluid Service
The ten-speed automatic transmission fluid is due for attention by this mileage if it has not been serviced, and degraded fluid can worsen shift complaints. This is maintenance exposure rather than proof of a failing transmission.
Every finding still open carries a question worth asking. Copy them as one message, already ordered by severity. Anything you have marked above drops off on its own.
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Price & negotiation
BetaBased on comparable listings and the repairs you can document. A starting point for what this car should cost.
Price breakdown
What it costs, and when
Verify now
Critical and major items to confirm first.
Possible year-one expense
Caution items with repair-cost context.
Each range is what that one item costs if it turns out to be present. Not every item will apply to this car, so they do not add up to a bill. Verify with a mechanic.
Asking is $42,000 against a typical $44,500 for this car and mileage. The work is the difference, not the sticker.
Negotiate your offer
Asking is about 6% below the market estimate, so there may be less room to move. The documented repairs below are still relevant to raise.
- Documented critical/major repairs of $5,250–$22,400 you can point to.
- Strongest items to raise first: Turbocharger Oil Leaks, Adaptive Shock Absorber Wear.
Pricing is in beta. The market estimate comes from research models and can be off by thousands on the same car, so check recent local listings before you rely on it. This is information to help you research, not a professional inspection, an appraisal, or financial advice.
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Recalls & safety
NHTSA crash-test ratings and recall data for this make, model, and year. Check recall status with your VIN before buying.
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In-person inspection
15 things to check before you buy
8 major and 7 caution findings, turned into a walkthrough for the driveway. Answers save as you go.
Before you leave: Ask the seller not to start or move the car before you arrive. A sales-ready car has usually been warmed up, and a warm engine hides the startup smoke, rattles and rough idle that the first section is built around.
01Cold Start CheckFirst1
Start the engine cold while you watch the exhaust and listen. Note how quickly it catches, the tint of any smoke, rattles in the first few seconds, and how smoothly it settles into idle. This is the one test you cannot repeat on the spot.
02Underneath4
Get low with the flashlight while everything is still cool. Look for drips and oily residue, feel inside the tailpipe for black greasy soot, and check the rubber CV boots at the ends of the axles for splits throwing grease. Kinks in the frame rails, fresh weld marks, and new undercoating on an old car all point at repaired collision damage.
03Interior & Electronics1
Turn the key to accessory and then on, before starting. Confirm every warning light comes on and then clears, and test the windows, locks, climate fan, infotainment, and seats while the engine is off. Smell for damp, lift the mats to feel for wet carpet, and compare pedal rubber wear against the odometer.
04Engine & Systems3
Before the first start: pull the oil dipstick and look for a milky film, check the coolant for oil or rust, squeeze the radiator hoses for hard or mushy spots, and note the battery date. Once warm: confirm the cooling fans cycle, listen for belt noise, look for fresh seepage that was not there cold, and check that the A/C blows cold.
05Test Drive5
Drive a route with stops, a hill, and some open road. Feel for shift quality, clutch or torque-converter behaviour, brakes that pull or pulse, steering play, and any noise that changes with speed or steering angle.
06Documentation1
Match the VIN across the title, dash, and door jamb. On a dealer lot, read the Buyers Guide sticker: it states whether the car carries a warranty or is sold as is, and as is means every repair after the sale is yours. Review service records and recall history, then run an OBD-II scan for stored and pending codes.
Everything on this list is what you can see standing next to the car. A shop on a lift sees the rest, and a written pre-purchase inspection listing parts and labor is what a seller has to answer to. Budget roughly $100 to $150 at an ASE-certified shop.
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