Rogue SL
2.5L 4-Cylinder · 104,447 mi · Model only
4.8 researched
Research covers this year, model and mileage. Items marked addressed are reported by the owner and not verified by Squeezed. This is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection.
2019 · NissanRogue SL
What the data shows
The Rogue is a practical, comfortable commuter, but its continuously variable transmission is the main financial risk at 104,447 miles. Judder, delayed engagement, and reduced-power events are documented concerns, while the engine itself is generally less troublesome. It excels at quiet everyday transport and usable cargo space, not engaging driving.
Budget about $7,600 for possible transmission work, verify smooth hot operation, and note that the asking price is in line with market.
At a Glance
What this guide surfacedfailure or valve-body problems can become the largest ownership expense at this mileage
the $11,500 asking price matches the estimated private-party value for this mileage and trim
Deal Score weighs the asking price against comparable listings, the title, and the repairs documented in this guide.
- Price 14% below market
- 6 major issues
- 3 open safety recalls
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Detailed findings, 9 items
Click any card for the full breakdown, repair cost, and what to check. Items already handled by the owner show as checked.
Reflects the open findings; items the owner handled are excluded.
Costly repairs, but not urgent to verify before you buy. Price them out and use them to negotiate.
Continuously Variable Transmission Judder
The continuously variable transmission can shudder during light acceleration, hesitate when pulling away, or enter reduced-power mode after warming up. A worn valve body, deteriorated belt and pulley assembly, or overheated fluid can produce similar symptoms and may eventually require transmission replacement.
Continuously Variable Transmission Overheating
Transmission fluid can overheat during prolonged climbing, towing, or hot-weather driving, causing warning messages, reduced power, and abnormal shift behavior. The Rogue's transmission control system may limit performance to protect the unit after excessive fluid temperature.
Front Wheel Bearing Noise
A front wheel bearing can develop a humming or growling noise that rises with road speed and changes when the vehicle is gently loaded left or right. Excessive play can also affect steering feel and tire wear.
Air Conditioning Compressor Failure
The air conditioning compressor can become noisy, stop producing cold air, or contaminate the system with debris after internal failure. A compressor that cycles rapidly or produces a grinding sound may be nearing replacement.
Front Suspension Bushing Wear
Front lower control-arm bushings can crack or soften, producing clunks over uneven pavement, wandering under braking, or uneven front-tire wear. The rubber may look split even when the vehicle still drives acceptably.
Rear Brake Caliper Sticking
A rear brake caliper or slide can seize, leaving one brake pad dragging and creating heat, a burning smell, uneven pad wear, or pulling. The affected wheel may be noticeably hotter than the opposite side after a normal drive.
Minor wear typical for the car’s age. Not worth negotiating over, but good to track as an owner.
Battery Drain and Low Voltage
A weak battery or parasitic electrical draw can cause slow cranking, warning lights, intermittent electronic faults, or a dead battery after the Rogue sits. Low voltage can make unrelated systems appear to fail until battery condition is corrected.
Exhaust Heat Shield Rattle
A loose or corroded exhaust heat shield can vibrate at idle or during low-speed acceleration, producing a metallic rattle from beneath the vehicle. The noise is often mistaken for an internal engine problem.
Continuously Variable Transmission Service Records
The condition and service history of the continuously variable transmission cannot be established from the supplied information. Nissan specifies dedicated continuously variable transmission fluid, and incorrect fluid or neglected service can worsen judder and wear.
Every finding still open carries a question worth asking. Copy them as one message, already ordered by severity. Anything you have marked above drops off on its own.
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Price & negotiation
BetaBased on comparable listings and the repairs you can document. A starting point for what this car should cost.
Price breakdown
What it costs, and when
Verify now
Critical and major items to confirm first.
Possible year-one expense
Caution items with repair-cost context.
Each range is what that one item costs if it turns out to be present. Not every item will apply to this car, so they do not add up to a bill. Verify with a mechanic.
Asking is $11,500 against a typical $13,450 for this car and mileage. The work is the difference, not the sticker.
Negotiate your offer
Asking is about 14% below the market estimate, so there may be less room to move. The documented repairs below are still relevant to raise.
- Documented critical/major repairs of $3,200–$11,950 you can point to.
- Strongest items to raise first: Continuously Variable Transmission Judder, Air Conditioning Compressor Failure.
Pricing is in beta. The market estimate comes from research models and can be off by thousands on the same car, so check recent local listings before you rely on it. This is information to help you research, not a professional inspection, an appraisal, or financial advice.
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Recalls & safety
NHTSA crash-test ratings and recall data for this make, model, and year. Check recall status with your VIN before buying.
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In-person inspection
9 things to check before you buy
6 major and 3 caution findings, turned into a walkthrough for the driveway. Answers save as you go.
Before you leave: Ask the seller not to start or move the car before you arrive. A sales-ready car has usually been warmed up, and a warm engine hides the startup smoke, rattles and rough idle that the first section is built around.
01Underneath2
Get low with the flashlight while everything is still cool. Look for drips and oily residue, feel inside the tailpipe for black greasy soot, and check the rubber CV boots at the ends of the axles for splits throwing grease. Kinks in the frame rails, fresh weld marks, and new undercoating on an old car all point at repaired collision damage.
02Engine & Systems2
Before the first start: pull the oil dipstick and look for a milky film, check the coolant for oil or rust, squeeze the radiator hoses for hard or mushy spots, and note the battery date. Once warm: confirm the cooling fans cycle, listen for belt noise, look for fresh seepage that was not there cold, and check that the A/C blows cold.
03Test Drive4
Drive a route with stops, a hill, and some open road. Feel for shift quality, clutch or torque-converter behaviour, brakes that pull or pulse, steering play, and any noise that changes with speed or steering angle.
04Documentation1
Match the VIN across the title, dash, and door jamb. On a dealer lot, read the Buyers Guide sticker: it states whether the car carries a warranty or is sold as is, and as is means every repair after the sale is yours. Review service records and recall history, then run an OBD-II scan for stored and pending codes.
Plus 1 baseline check every used car needs, added because this car’s findings are short.
Everything on this list is what you can see standing next to the car. A shop on a lift sees the rest, and a written pre-purchase inspection listing parts and labor is what a seller has to answer to. Budget roughly $100 to $150 at an ASE-certified shop.
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