Rogue SL
2.5L 4-Cylinder · 104,447 mi · Model only
5.0 researched · 1.0 owner reported
Research covers this year, model and mileage. Items marked addressed are reported by the owner and not verified by Squeezed. This is not a substitute for a pre-purchase inspection.
2019 · NissanRogue SL
What the data shows
At 104,447 miles, this Rogue’s main financial risk is CVT judder or internal transmission wear, with forward emergency-braking faults another documented check. It remains a practical, efficient commuter.
Budget about $9,500 for CVT exposure, scan for transmission codes, and compare the $11,500 asking price with the private-party market.
At a Glance
What this guide surfacedtransmission judder and internal wear become a meaningful financial risk around this mileage
documented radar-system faults can disable an important driver-assistance feature
the $11,500 asking price is slightly below the estimated midpoint for this trim and mileage
Deal Score weighs the asking price against comparable listings, the title, and the repairs documented in this guide.
- Price 14% below market
- 6 major issues
- 3 open safety recalls
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Detailed findings, 6 items
Click any card for the full breakdown, repair cost, and what to check. Items already handled by the owner show as checked.
Reflects the open findings; items the owner handled are excluded.
Costly repairs, but not urgent to verify before you buy. Price them out and use them to negotiate.
CVT Judder and Wear
The CVT develops judder because the belt and pulley surfaces lose grip under light acceleration, felt as shuddering once the transmission warms up. Continued slipping contaminates the fluid and progresses toward valve-body or complete transmission replacement.
Forward Emergency Braking Fault
The forward emergency braking system logs radar-related faults and disables automatic braking, often displaying a warning on the instrument panel. Radar obstruction, alignment, or software faults leave the car without this assistance until the system is diagnosed and reset.
Front Wheel Bearing Noise
The front wheel bearings develop a humming or growling noise that changes when the steering is gently loaded left or right, with looseness appearing later. Bearing wear increases hub play and affects wheel control if it is allowed to progress.
Front Control Arm Bushing Wear
The front control-arm bushings crack and soften, producing clunks over broken pavement and allowing the wheel to move during braking. That movement causes unstable tracking and uneven tire wear when the bushings become substantially degraded.
Engine Mount Vibration
The engine mounts lose their damping and transmit excessive vibration into the cabin, especially at idle in Drive or during gear engagement. Torn or collapsed rubber lets the engine shift farther than designed and creates clunks during throttle changes.
A/C Compressor Failure
The air conditioning compressor loses pumping ability or develops a noisy clutch, leaving the cabin warm and sometimes sending metallic debris through the refrigerant system. Compressor debris contaminates the condenser and expansion components, increasing the repair scope.
Every finding still open carries a question worth asking. Copy them as one message, already ordered by severity. Anything you have marked above drops off on its own.
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Price & negotiation
BetaBased on comparable listings and the repairs you can document. A starting point for what this car should cost.
Price breakdown
What it costs, and when
Verify now
Critical and major items to confirm first.
Each range is what that one item costs if it turns out to be present. Not every item will apply to this car, so they do not add up to a bill. Verify with a mechanic.
Asking is $11,500 against a typical $13,450 for this car and mileage. The work is the difference, not the sticker.
Negotiate your offer
Asking is about 14% below the market estimate, so there may be less room to move. The documented repairs below are still relevant to raise.
- Documented critical/major repairs of $5,900–$13,150 you can point to.
- Strongest items to raise first: CVT Judder and Wear, A/C Compressor Failure.
Pricing is in beta. The market estimate comes from research models and can be off by thousands on the same car, so check recent local listings before you rely on it. This is information to help you research, not a professional inspection, an appraisal, or financial advice.
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Recalls & safety
NHTSA crash-test ratings and recall data for this make, model, and year. Check recall status with your VIN before buying.
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In-person inspection
6 things to check before you buy
6 major findings, turned into a walkthrough for the driveway. Answers save as you go.
Before you leave: Ask the seller not to start or move the car before you arrive. A sales-ready car has usually been warmed up, and a warm engine hides the startup smoke, rattles and rough idle that the first section is built around.
01Underneath2
Get low with the flashlight while everything is still cool. Look for drips and oily residue, feel inside the tailpipe for black greasy soot, and check the rubber CV boots at the ends of the axles for splits throwing grease. Kinks in the frame rails, fresh weld marks, and new undercoating on an old car all point at repaired collision damage.
02Engine & Systems2
Before the first start: pull the oil dipstick and look for a milky film, check the coolant for oil or rust, squeeze the radiator hoses for hard or mushy spots, and note the battery date. Once warm: confirm the cooling fans cycle, listen for belt noise, look for fresh seepage that was not there cold, and check that the A/C blows cold.
03Test Drive1
Drive a route with stops, a hill, and some open road. Feel for shift quality, clutch or torque-converter behaviour, brakes that pull or pulse, steering play, and any noise that changes with speed or steering angle.
04Documentation1
Match the VIN across the title, dash, and door jamb. On a dealer lot, read the Buyers Guide sticker: it states whether the car carries a warranty or is sold as is, and as is means every repair after the sale is yours. Review service records and recall history, then run an OBD-II scan for stored and pending codes.
Plus 4 baseline checks every used car needs, added because this car’s findings are short.
Everything on this list is what you can see standing next to the car. A shop on a lift sees the rest, and a written pre-purchase inspection listing parts and labor is what a seller has to answer to. Budget roughly $100 to $150 at an ASE-certified shop.
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